All Chef Must Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Earns 4th on List of London’s Leading Restaurants.

When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.

Antonio Villarreal
Antonio Villarreal

Tech enthusiast and design thinker exploring the intersection of innovation and aesthetics.